Blog » Guru Clothing for Women
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Beauty and the (non-biodegradable-packaging) Beast
Many of us like to look pretty schmick while saving the World. Which is why from time to time (or for many of us all the time) we gravitate to beauty products and make-up items to give us that little bit of style-oomph we crave. When it comes to fashion items it can be pretty easy to say no to excess packaging by refusing the carry bag or asking companies to pack your items in biodegradable post options. Sadly it’s a whole lot more difficult to ask for your super black mascara sans packaging. One wouldn’t approach the local M.A.C cosmetics counter with a request for ‘Ruby Woo’ without the lipstick tube without causing a serious amount of confusion. However there are some little beauty tips and some brands that you might be surprised to learn about that will help you work towards a more environmentally friendly beauty regime
Read more: http://sustainabilityinstyle.com/beauty-and-the-non-biodegradable-packaging-beast/
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Nike, Netherlands company announce partnership for waterless fabric dyeing
Nike announced today it has entered a strategic partnership with DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V., a Netherlands-based company that has developed and built the first commercially available waterless textile dyeing machines.Details of the partnership -- such as the amount of textiles that Nike will convert from water-dyeing to the waterless technology as well as the pace of that conversion -- have yet to be determined.
But the potential impact of the world's largest sporting goods company adopting waterless dyeing process is huge.
Last year, Nike was among several apparel companies that entered an agreement with Greenpeace to end textile-dyeing practices that have been blamed for endangering water supplies worldwide, especially in China and the rest of Asia.
Conventional textile dyeing requires substantial amounts of water. On average, an estimated 100-150 liters of water is needed to process one kg of textile materials.
Industry analysts estimate that more than 39 million tons of polyester will be dyed annually by 2015. At present, DyeCoo's technology is limited to dying polyester, though research is underway to add cotton and other natural and synthetic products to the waterless mix, Eric Sprunk, Nike's vice president of merchandising and product., said in an interview with The Oregonian.
http://www.oregonlive.com/playbooks-profits/index.ssf/2012/02/nike_netherlands_company_annou.html
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PURE LINEN
The preindustrial method of linen production hasn`t changed in centuries. Though over the last hundred years we`ve developed machines that complete the task of harvesting, retting and dressing flax, these processes damage the delicate fibres such that finest linens are still manufactured almost entirely by hand. Because the process is still so laborious, even mechanised production actually requires a great deal more handwork than other mass industrially-produced textiles like cotton and rayon.
This is how the process looks like today :
PLANTINGPlanted between March 15th and April 15th, the seed takes 100 days to grow and reach 1 meter when it flowers.
FLOWERINGJune - though the Linen flower only lives a few hours atop its supple stem, all flowers in a field do not bloom on the same day; This is what gives the landscape a delicate blue-ish colour for a few weeks, moving like an Impressionist sea in the wind.
HARVESTINGJuly - We don't reap linen, we pull it up! It is pulled up when the leaves have dropped off the bottom third of the stem. The plants are then placed in swaths of cloth ( one-meter wide linen sheets) which give the field a graphic beauty. The capsules holding the seeds take on a brownish-yellow colour.
RETTINGAugust - The first phase of transforming the plant to fibres : Mother Nature takes over. Sun, dew and rain help detach the fibrous skin from the central wood, the stems take on a beautiful russet hue. Then comes the time for gathering.
SCUTCHINGThe second phase for mechanically transforming the plant into fibres: to use the linen fibres which surround the central wood like skin, it is necessary to separate them. Scutching, a specialised mechanical process, includes shelling, stretching, grinding and treshing. The sunny, sensual fragrances of cut grass and warm bread float in the air.
COMBINGCombing is the preparation for spinning, a homogenization of fibres into soft, lustrous ribbons like blond hair.
SPINNINGThe third phase of the transformation, from fibre to yarn is spinning.
Untangle, regularised, stretch, thread fibres. The metric number (Mn) corresponds to the number of kilometres of yarn, made out of 1 kilogram of fibre. The higher the figure, the thinner the yarn.
WEAVINGWeaving is the process in which the flax threads are interlaced to form the linen fabric. On a loom, or frame, the length-wise threads known as the warp are fixed under tension while another thread is woven through the warp which is called the weft. The warp threads are separated and the weft is carried through them on a shuttle. Linen can be developed in serge, herringbone, glen plaids, double-weaves, velvet, floating yarns, gauze, satin...
KNITTINGAfter several years of investing in R&D, European spinners have succeeded in improving the numbering of the yarns and facilitating knitting operations to give birth to a new generation of ultra fine, regular and particularly smooth yarns. the aim is to produce sensual, caressing, supple and elastic linen knits.
FINISHINGThe ultimate step in fabric processing, finishing includes treatments designed to change the appearance of the yarn or linen fabrics and giving them the values sought by consumers in terms of comfort, aesthetics, functionality. Four categories are distinguished: bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing. -
The coming fast-fashion boom in the developing world spells big trouble for the environment
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Can Fast Fashion Ever Be Ethical?
There’s no such thing as fast fashion, just increasingly accelerated consumption. At least, that was the argument Dilys put forward, emphasizing the millions of years required for crude oil- that eventually becomes polyester- to form, and the six months that cotton takes to grow. In some ways, fashion is still very slow. It is just the very end of the process, the making, buying and discarding of garments that is being increasingly accelerated at a worryingly fast pace.
